A Day in the Country

 When your driver tells you his grandad used to take him fishing on the very highway you are riding on, you sit up and listen.  But how is this possible?  Then you realize this is Amsterdam, a city over 6’ under sea level; a city founded on the Amstel River, hence the city name and the name of a favorite brew.

This is a city we must return to to explore further, but a day in the country sounded quite nice after literally pounding the pavement for the past 2 days.  By the way, there is not a high heel to be found in the city as that would be tantamount to committing suicide with the stone and brick walks, trolley tracks and the close calls with bicyclists…more on them later.

After a brisk morning walk and a free ferry ride (yes, I did say ‘free’) we meet our driver Jon.  Jon is a big burly man who lives in the house he was born in just outside the city center; a house dating back to the late 1800’s.  As he is driving he gives us what could be a Master’s class in Engineering…all about the modern windmills and how the radar detects when the birds perch on the blades and stops them so they don’t kill the fowl…how the dikes open and close to allow for boat traffic…how the fish now have a waterway all to themselves so they can mate in the salt water and then give birth in the fresh water.  More than this city girl could imagine!

In about 1 1/2 hours we arrive in the village of Geithorn, nicknamed the Dutch Venice, where no cars are allowed.  It was founded by the Mennonites; the most idyllic place with canal cruises maneuvering throughout.  Unfortunately it has become a tourist bus destination so in the season there are traffic jams, the same as the original Venice.  Fortunately we timed it just right so it was a totally relaxing afternoon.

Dinner proved to be quite the experience!  Two separate friends recommend Pesca, a fresh fish restaurant where you begin by Step 1 -choosing your fish(es) and sides, Step 2-choosing your bottle of wine, Step 3- hoisting your short legs up to your table top with your bucket of beverages hanging behind you.  What a fun, happening place!  The fish and the service:  A+.  Thanks, friends, for the rec.

So here’s the bicycle stats:  in a city with 1.2 million people, there are 600,000 bicycles.  A new garage just opened at the Central Station that can park 20,000 bikes.  Not all the commuters use this garage, however.  We took the ferry where there were more people with bikes than without.  Bikes are parked all over the city, sometimes just with a simple bike lock, but not always.  Riders believe they have the right of way, red or green light.  If a car hits them, even though the car is in the right, well, the bicyclist will argue they do and the police decide it’s a 50-50 fault.  People are practically born on bikes.  Young and old traverse the city and NO ONE wears a helmet or has a rear view mirror.  Nerves of steel!

By the way, does this house give you pause??

We loved every minute of Amsterdam!  The Pulitzer Hotel, the welcoming hosts throughout, the culture and history, even the chilly weather.  We shall return!

Amsterdam….the trip begins

 So who wants to begin a trip with the man who decides to call his eldest child and give him the code to our home safe “in case the plane goes down”.  Really, Dom???? 😳

After about 15 hours in travel time we arrive at the Pulitzer Hotel and I really wanted to brush my teeth.  While I could fill a cabinet with the United Airlines vanity kits, you know I would never ‘freshen up’ in a airplane bathroom!  At 12:30pm we did not expect our room to be ready but here’s a new amenity on me… the Pulitzer has ‘Refresher Rooms’ for the likes of us.  They booked it for 1-1/2 hours, enough time for a shower and a tiny nap before our 2 hour walking tour and 2 hour canal cruise; just enough time to get the lay of the land (and water) of Amsterdam. 

The architecture of these homes built in the 1600’s are so well preserved and tell the stories of those who founded Amsterdam.  Most could not read,  so ornate carvings and rooftops were their homes’ distinguishing features.  The staircases are so narrow, no furniture could fit through so giant pulleys were added to the facades to hoist up either wood to construct the furniture on site or, in-later times, to haul up your sofa or sewing machine.

Oh, by the way, Coffee Shops are not your neighborhood Starbucks.  It’s more about smoking than drinking coffee.

Of course, there’s the obligatory walk thru of the Red Light District.  But be forewarned, taking photos of the ladies will get you a fine of 95 euros.  And condoms and STD tests are required.  I guess they keep a file on their regulars 🤷🏻‍♀️

After the never ending day, a beer and a burger at the hotel and off to a comfy bed.

Alas, the bed was so comfy we awoke like Kevin in Home Alone!  Van Gogh tickets were in one hour about a  20 min walk away.  How fast can we shower and breakfast? Ah, we’ve still got it! The exhibit was, as you would expect, enthralling.  What a tortured talent he was. Of course, any in depth exhibit reveals so much about an artist.  Besides his famous paintings and many self portraits, I learned how close he was to his brother; that his brother named his son after him and that Vincent’s namesake founded this museum to honor his uncle.

Now the Vermeer exhibit held at the  Rijksmuseum is there until June 4th and tickets have been sold out for like forever.  A little birdie told me to inquire when there if tickets might be available.  Lo and behold, we got on a very short queue and waited a half hour until they opened up day of tickets.  Score!  Such a special exhibit.  Note to self, The Girl with the Pearl Earring is hanging in The Hague, one of our scheduled stops in a couple of days.

Our museum day concluded with a 9pm tour of the Anne Frank museum.  One cannot come to Amsterdam without going there and remembering….