A Day in the Country

 When your driver tells you his grandad used to take him fishing on the very highway you are riding on, you sit up and listen.  But how is this possible?  Then you realize this is Amsterdam, a city over 6’ under sea level; a city founded on the Amstel River, hence the city name and the name of a favorite brew.

This is a city we must return to to explore further, but a day in the country sounded quite nice after literally pounding the pavement for the past 2 days.  By the way, there is not a high heel to be found in the city as that would be tantamount to committing suicide with the stone and brick walks, trolley tracks and the close calls with bicyclists…more on them later.

After a brisk morning walk and a free ferry ride (yes, I did say ‘free’) we meet our driver Jon.  Jon is a big burly man who lives in the house he was born in just outside the city center; a house dating back to the late 1800’s.  As he is driving he gives us what could be a Master’s class in Engineering…all about the modern windmills and how the radar detects when the birds perch on the blades and stops them so they don’t kill the fowl…how the dikes open and close to allow for boat traffic…how the fish now have a waterway all to themselves so they can mate in the salt water and then give birth in the fresh water.  More than this city girl could imagine!

In about 1 1/2 hours we arrive in the village of Geithorn, nicknamed the Dutch Venice, where no cars are allowed.  It was founded by the Mennonites; the most idyllic place with canal cruises maneuvering throughout.  Unfortunately it has become a tourist bus destination so in the season there are traffic jams, the same as the original Venice.  Fortunately we timed it just right so it was a totally relaxing afternoon.

Dinner proved to be quite the experience!  Two separate friends recommend Pesca, a fresh fish restaurant where you begin by Step 1 -choosing your fish(es) and sides, Step 2-choosing your bottle of wine, Step 3- hoisting your short legs up to your table top with your bucket of beverages hanging behind you.  What a fun, happening place!  The fish and the service:  A+.  Thanks, friends, for the rec.

So here’s the bicycle stats:  in a city with 1.2 million people, there are 600,000 bicycles.  A new garage just opened at the Central Station that can park 20,000 bikes.  Not all the commuters use this garage, however.  We took the ferry where there were more people with bikes than without.  Bikes are parked all over the city, sometimes just with a simple bike lock, but not always.  Riders believe they have the right of way, red or green light.  If a car hits them, even though the car is in the right, well, the bicyclist will argue they do and the police decide it’s a 50-50 fault.  People are practically born on bikes.  Young and old traverse the city and NO ONE wears a helmet or has a rear view mirror.  Nerves of steel!

By the way, does this house give you pause??

We loved every minute of Amsterdam!  The Pulitzer Hotel, the welcoming hosts throughout, the culture and history, even the chilly weather.  We shall return!